Grand Canyon – South Rim

We spent an enjoyable few days at the Grand Canyon and made the most of a scenic drive easterly toward Desert View. The east entrance was closed this year as well as the shuttles. The parking lots were virtually empty and, all I can say, is wow — imagine what the crowd would have been like otherwise.

To use our time wisely, we stayed at a full hookup RV Park within the park. We had cable hookup in RV Park, and were able to watch a program detailing the construction and preservation of Desert View Watchtower (closed at this time). That was the highlight of having cable TV. Our primary focus was getting out and enjoying sunset and sunrise.

We must have taken a hundred photos, and reviewing which ones to keep was difficult. Not that the photos, themselves are spectacular, but the experience was bigger than you can capture in pictures. In person, everything is three-dimensional.

There was such a different feel between the warmth of the waning sun each afternoon, as the light illuminated off the canyon walls, and the morning sunrises, where a hazy, almost mystical, feel lingers over the ridge lines.

Early morning.
Sunrise at Yavapai Point.

I tried to photograph the Bright Angel Trail, but it was too far in the distance for my camera. I can say it is a steep trail full of switchbacks, just like it was described in the 1953 childrens’ book ,’Brighty of the Grand Canyon’, by Marguerite Henry (more info on Wikipedia).

Watching the afternoon sun go down.

At the opposite end, the Grandview Trail drops off the edge, headed downward 2,440 feet to Horseshoe Mesa, where in 1890, copper-rich ore was mined in small quantities at the Last Chance Mine for several years. Each load took several hours to haul by hand and hoof up the three mile trail to the top of the rim. A hotel also stood along the south rim in this area, that once hosted travelers who dares to endure a 14-mile long wagon trip from the east entrance to see the Grand Canyon.

The river is down there somewhere.

Prior to our stay within Grand Canyon Village, we stayed at Ten-X NFS campground, approximately 10 miles south of the Rim. The park is very convenient and makes a good base to get around. The park has a variety of sites, and our particular pull thru site was large enough to accommodate eight cars. Getting up early to take Ellie out, I was quite surprised to see someone had pulled in behind us, and set up a tent in the night. After realizing it was a mother, grandmother and small child, we said oh well, no harm done, as they quietly packed up n the morning.

We enjoyed our first experience seeing Elk. Several young males wandered the park and not seem bothered by barking dogs, as they searched for water. A park ranger indicated this year has been very dry and all the animals are looking for water. We watched two young males remove signage off the water spigot as they tried to open the valve. Even bees and crows gather around whenever people use the water faucets.

Elk roaming the campground.

Our trip was just great. Perfect weather, meals prepared in advance to enjoy more time exploring the rim, and magical twilights.

6 thoughts on “Grand Canyon – South Rim”

  1. Great post and so glad you enjoyed it! It really is such an amazing place that even the best photos do not capture!

  2. A writer on Good Reads posted the following review (edited):

    Brighty of the Grand Canyon is a children’s novel from 1953, written by Marguerite Henry. Now viewed as a classic of American children’s literature, it tells the adventures of a little donkey (or as the Spanish say, burro) who blazed trails through the Grand Canyon, had many adventures and met many famous people in the process. It is loosely based on a real life donkey, who was first seen around 1890.

    The novel begins as Brighty, a wild donkey, made friends with a prospector, “Old Timer”, who was searching for copper in the Grand Canyon. The grizzled old man named him, “Bright Angel” after a creek that flowed into the Grand Canyon from near his summer dwelling on the North Rim. The two of them had a special bond, but Brighty remained a free spirit, roaming the high cliffs of the Grand Canyon.

    The prospector was a honest old soul, and freely told others where he thought he had located a seam of valuable copper ore, and early in the novel he was murdered by Jake Irons, a ruthless claim-jumper.

    We read of all the adventures Brighty went through over the years. He touched the hearts of all who knew him, and made other friends with mapmakers, prospectors, naturalists, game hunters, and had another special relationship with “Uncle Jim”, a man who was trying to track down the murderer of his old friend. Brighty also made enemies of those who wanted to catch him and put him to work. More than once when he was captured, he was beaten with sticks, and once he was put into a cage and almost hanged, when the captor (whom he knew from before) tried to force him across the canyon. Another time Brighty barely escaped with his life, was in a fight with a mountain lion.

    Brighty gladly helped those with whom he felt a loyal bond, and spent some summers carrying water from a spring below the rim, for the tourists coming to the Canyon. He was gentle and popular with children, even allowing children to ride on his back sometimes. He never allowed adults to do this however, and would kick, bray, and run off into the distance. Brighty was a wily donkey.

    He also became the leader of a herd of wild donkeys, fighting for his position as their natural chief, until he was finally supplanted by a younger and fitter donkey.

    Brighty’s trails across the Grand Canyon eventually were the base for the suspension bridge, over the Colorado River at the base of the canyon. He watched the rock being carved out and assisted with the construction and building of the bridge. Brighty was the first to cross the suspension bridge, alongside “Uncle Jim” Owen. At the opening ceremony, he was honoured by President Theodore Roosevelt, who admired Brighty very much. Brighty had often gone along with the president when he was hunting for mountain lions. Teddy Roosevelt was known to be a very keen hunter.

    The beauty of the Grand Canyon is everpresent, and there are lovely descriptions of Brighty enjoying the natural world, which are welcome in a children’s novel. There are 36 shortish chapters, interspersed with many pencil drawings, which perfectly convey Brighty’s mischievous spirit – and conversely, when he is facing great troubles. There are just a few colour plates.

    Marguerite Henry had sold her first story at the age of 11, in response to a magazine’s request for articles by children, about the four seasons. She often wrote about animals, including dogs, cats, birds, foxes, and mules, but most of her stories are about horses. She eventually wrote fifty-nine books, all based on true stories of horses and other animals, some of which won awards. Perhaps her most famous books are about “Misty of Chincoteague”, a chestnut and white (pinto) wild horse.

    In her will Marguerite Henry left her money to the Assateague Nature Preserve and Chincoteague town.

    There is a bronze statue of Brighty, in the lobby of Grand Canyon Lodge, a National Historic Landmark, located near Arizona State Route 67. The monument of stone walls and timbers has a memorial inscription written by Marguerite Henry:

    “the artist captured the soul of Brighty, forever wild, forever free”

    1. Based on my fourth grade memory of the only book I enjoyed reading during our ‘book program’, many of the details escape my memory. It is interesting to learn the connection to the wild horses of Chincoteague/Assateague, another wonderful place with sweet memories.

  3. Thanks – Arizona in the summer has been a new experience as was Texas in the Spring. Best of all is meeting nice new friends along our travels. Stay safe!

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